All about metals, hallmarks and guarantees

The French guarantee

Official Hallmarks and the Maker's Mark

In France, jewelry made of precious metals (gold, silver, platinum, etc.) is subject to official controls. They receive a hallmark corresponding to their fineness and material, attesting to the purity and quality of the metal, validated by the competent authorities.

  • Silver jewelry weighing over 30g is subject to official control and receives the hallmark, the Minerva's Head.

  • Gold jewelry weighing over 3g receives the hallmark, the Eagle's Head, an official symbol validated by French customs.

Each piece of jewelry I create also bears my maker's mark, my official signature as an artisan, registered with the French administration.

Download the hallmark table

THE MAKER'S MARK

Craftsperson's signature

As a jeweler, regulations require the application of a maker's mark on each piece of jewelry made of precious metal, due to the very nature of the materials used.

Each creation I make bears this hallmark, thus guaranteeing that it is a handmade, local piece designed from precious metals. A true signature of the artisan, the mark is registered with the competent authorities. It certifies the authenticity of the piece and clearly identifies its creator.

The image you see here represents the design of my maker's mark. It is extremely small (1.4 x 0.9 mm) and discreetly affixed to each piece of jewelry, almost imperceptible to the naked eye. To distinguish its details, you will need a magnifying glass. It is an official imprint that guarantees the origin of each piece of jewelry, ensures its traceability over time, and confirms the intrinsic value of each creation.

Quality, ethics and sustainability

REACH-compliant, the silver used is 925‰ or 950‰ sterling, renowned for its quality and purity. It guarantees safety and compliance with standards.

The materials used for the jewelry offered on the site are selected with precision from trusted suppliers who are committed to ethical and sustainable practices. The majority of these materials come from recycled and RJC CoC certified sources, ensuring responsible traceability. When this is not the case, it is specified in the description of each item.

Each material is chosen for its quality, durability, and ability to stand the test of time. In this regard, metal scraps are systematically collected, recycled, and reused.

Table of Contents:

Silver, vermeil, 18K gold and gold-plated brass.

When buying a piece of jewelry, choosing the metal is an essential step.

Beyond aesthetics, the metal influences durability, daily use, how it ages, and the budget. Here are some guidelines to help you make the right choice.

The first criterion is, of course, the color:

Do you prefer a silver or gold finish?

925 Sterling Silver

What is 925 Silver / Sterling Silver?

In reality, it is the same metal, referred to by different names. Sterling silver, also known as sterling silver or solid silver, is an alloy composed of 92.5% pure silver and 7.5% copper, with a naturally silvery hue.

This combination enhances the strength of silver. In its pure state, silver is too malleable for daily use in jewelry; the addition of copper increases its mechanical resistance while preserving its nobility and luster.

A living metal that patinates

Although silver does not chemically oxidize, it can tarnish over time due to a reaction with sulfur present in the air. This reaction forms a thin natural patina on the surface of the jewelry. This film is easily cleanable and bears witness to the history and life of the piece. (Learn more)

Vermilion

A more affordable alternative to 18-carat gold

Vermeil is a piece of jewelry made entirely of 925 sterling silver, then, once finished, plated with 18-carat gold (with a minimum thickness of 5 microns).

Visually, 18-carat yellow gold and vermeil are practically identical, but their nature differs;

It combines a 925 sterling silver core, a precious metal, covered with a layer of yellow gold, thus offering a more accessible alternative to solid gold for those who appreciate the aesthetics of gold-plated jewelry, while retaining the advantages of precious and durable jewelry.

  • Offered upon request, this service entails an additional cost due to the involvement of a specialized workshop, ensuring gilding quality in compliance with vermeil requirements.

GOLD

Precious metal par excellence

Gold is used in jewelry in various alloys, each offering a unique color and finish.

  • In its native state in the earth, yellow gold is the classic and most traditional alloy. It remains highly valued for prestigious pieces.

  • Rose gold, enriched with a touch of copper, boasts a delicately rosy hue, while red gold, with an increased proportion of copper, displays a more intense coppery shade.

  • White gold, in reality a gray gold, comes in several variants: alloyed with nickel and zinc, or with palladium for superior brilliance and exceptional quality, highly prized in high jewelry. To give it its white and shiny appearance, it is often covered with a thin layer of rhodium, a naturally very white and luminous metal. This treatment, comparable to gilding, provides a more brilliant finish.

This treatment, also used on some silver pieces (upon request), requires periodic maintenance.

Over time, this layer can fade and require new rhodium plating to revive the jewelry's brilliance.

Brass

A precious alloy in jewelry

  • Brass is a metal alloy composed mainly of copper and zinc.

  • Copper (Cu): Generally between 55% and 90%, copper is the base element of brass.

  • Zinc (Zn): Zinc generally accounts for between 5% and 45% of brass. The higher the percentage of zinc, the harder the alloy. Zinc also influences the color of the alloy, which can vary from reddish to golden yellow depending on the proportion of zinc.

For my creations, I use quality brass (UZ36 alloy), composed of 64% copper and 36% zinc. This balance results in a metal that is both strong, stable, and visually bright.

Some models and custom projects can also be offered in gold-plated brass (3 microns), for a bright golden finish and a more affordable alternative. Naturally prone to oxidation, brass is protected by this plating, which limits its effects and prolongs its shine.

More delicate by nature, this plating evolves over time and requires special care to preserve its luster.

Gold-plated brass (3 microns) is thus a more accessible alternative for lovers of golden finishes.

To summarize:

Depending on the desired color, all these criteria must be taken into account:

✦ Golden hues

If you prefer golden shades, you have three options:

  • 18-karat yellow gold is mainly composed of pure gold. It is distinguished by its superior quality, its perfect stability over time, and its timeless character.

  • Vermeil combines a sterling silver base with a thick layer of 18-karat gold. It offers a beautiful finish quality, with the shine and appearance of gold, in an elegant and precious alternative.

  • Gold-plated brass (3 microns) offers a luminous and affordable gold finish. It provides a beautiful visual effect, with a simpler quality, whose durability varies depending on use and maintenance.

✦ Silvery hues

If you prefer silver hues, there are two options:

  • 925 silver is bright, with a slightly cool and natural hue.

  • 18-carat white gold, slightly warmer, offers an elegant alternative for those who like grey hues, while maintaining exceptional precious quality.
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✦ Durability

  • 18-carat gold is the most resistant to oxidation and wear. It is an excellent choice for a piece of jewelry you wish to keep for a long time and pass down.

  • 925 silver, an alloy of pure silver, can naturally tarnish over time; however, regular maintenance can easily restore its shine.

  • Vermeil, a combination of sterling silver and 18-carat gold plating, may see its luster change over time depending on use. The gold layer can fade, especially with contact from water, chemicals, or friction. Proper maintenance and re-plating can revive its gilded finish.

  • Gold-plated brass, a metal base covered with gold, has more variable durability: the gold layer can gradually fade with time and friction. Proper maintenance and re-plating can revive its gilded finish.

✦ The budget

Finally, the choice of metal of course depends on your budget.

18-carat gold is positioned as the noblest and most durable alloy; it represents an investment, especially for pieces one wishes to keep for a lifetime.

Vermeil is an interesting alternative: it offers the appearance of gold at a lower price, while still remaining in the precious metals category.

925 silver is a precious metal in its own right, the most accessible of the noble alloys.

Gold-plated brass represents the most accessible option, designed for a golden finish, with wear that evolves more over time.